Why I love (part of) the 17th arrondissement: Rue De Levis
I consider the 8th arrondissement my area, my own personal stomping grounds here in Paris. Having lived here for over five years, I still can’t get enough of it. But there is one place that I adore that is not located in the 8th, but just across the street from boulevard de Courcelles: rue de Levis. I consider this rue piétonne to be perhaps one of Paris’ best-kept secrets.First I’ll tell you how to get there, and then why you should go. Take the métro (line 2 or line 3) to the station Villiers. Once you get off the train, follow the exit for avenue de Villiers--boulevard de Courcelles. Once you leave the station from this exit, you will exit facing a bank (BNP), a taxi line to the left, and what I like to call "Little" Monoprix" across the street. (I call it "little" Monoprix because, well, it is the smaller of the two Monoprix stores and my husband and I would always confuse the two when asking each other to pick up something. He would say, "Didn’t you go to Monoprix"? And I would say, "Oh, when you asked me if I were going, I thought you meant to the grocery store. Sorry, honey! I didn’t get your shaving gel.")
But I digress. Back to your cool outing: cross the street (this street is avenue de Villiers), enter the Monoprix, walk through the store (feel free to browse among the great things you’ll find inside, including postcards, film, makeup, batteries) and out the other door. Voila! You are now on rue de Levis, facing what we so fondly call "Big" Monoprix--this one is the grocery store.
Turn left and start your walk. There are many shops to explore on this street. If you are looking for fresh fruit there are many vendors, and you’ll find strawberries at sometimes 2€ per kilo (a steal!). You’ll find butchers with fresh rabbits, chickens and birds in the window, still in feathers. (It’s been explained to me that this is the ultimate sign of freshness). There are cheese stores as well and you’ll appreciate even the strongest of smells as you pass by them. At one traiteur, someone is always roasting chicken and drawing you in with the delicious odour. You’ll find specialities from the east of France, fresh fish and other seafood, and even plenty of Italian restaurants and traiteurs. If you are looking for a good bottle of wine, head down the street to Nicolas, the well-known wine store.
If you need cold medicine or other remedies, there are several pharmacies on this street as well. If you are looking for jewellery, you’ll find some. Check out Mayrev. It’s a tiny new store, extremely cute and trendy. You need new clothes? Head to Pro Mod, Camaieu, or back to (little) Monoprix, or Benetton at the end of the street. You need new sunglasses or prescription glasses? There are places to serve you. Let’s say you want to make a new dress (who knows?)--there is even a cloth shop--La Mercerie. You want the latest DVD? You’ll find a DVD/CD store en plein rue.
I like to shop for baby clothes at Tout Compte Fait. There are also shoe stores for babies and adults. At Yves Rocher you’ll find luxurious bath soaps and lotions, and can even get a soin du visage, if you wish. Get your hair trimmed at Jean-Louis Beguine. If so much shopping is getting the best of your wallet, you’ll find a bank at the top of the street (Banque Populaire), and another one at the end near Benetton, at La Poste, or better yet, there’s an ATM machine inside where else? (Little) Monoprix, and don’t forget the one located by the entrance to the métro.
If you go around lunch or dinner time, you could try one of the Chinese traiteurs. The one I enjoy most is Tea Vert, which you’ll find at the end of rue de Levis. Take a right and it’s just in front of La Poste, on 26 rue Legendre. It is however very, very small so usually I get my order to go. Okay, so you didn’t come all the way to Paris for Chinese food. Good! If you want want to sit down--and I really recommend that you do--and enjoy the scenery a bit more, try Café Monceau, a beautiful and wonderfully decorated restaurant with a delicious menu. The "Salade Royale" is yum, yum yummy! There’s also La Dome Villiers, a typical French brasserie, café and restaurant. If moules frites (mussels and fries) whet your appetite, try La Taverne de Villiers, which also offers international beers. All of these restaurants have outdoor tables and excellent for people-watching. If you don’t have time to sit down, there’s a Paul’s (really excellent bread) and other places to buy sandwiches, baguettes, and croissants.
When to go? Mondays are a little slower because the markets are closed, and Sundays are only busy in the mornings. Otherwise, it’s a very active and animated street. Not only are the shops and restaurants fabulous, but here you’ll also get a real sense of life in Paris. There aren’t many tourists in this little area, hardly any, in fact. The people in this neighbourhood are mostly residents or people working here, so you get to see a little aspect of Parisian life on a daily basis. With women (and men) pulling their grocery carts, the vendors yelling the latest lowest prices, people buying their shaving gel at (little) Monoprix, and people looking over a newspaper or chatting with friends while enjoying a café, you’ll get a sense of what life here is like.
By the way, I also recommend this neighbourhood to people who visit Paris all the time. If you decide to stay in this area, it’s a fantastic choice because you are close to all the popular tourist places and practical métro stations, parks, etc. The hotels are nice and cosy. Try Hotel New Orient, which is just nearby at 16 rue Constantinople, and a personal favourite of mine due to the friendly staff and charming rooms and of course the location. (Sometimes it really is all about location, location, location!) I’ve had several friends and relatives who’ve stayed in this area and in this particular hotel and they loved it. But whether you actually stay in this neighbourhood or not, you won’t be disappointed by visiting. Have fun!
A true Southern Belle who grew up in Alabama, Priscilla Lalisse now lives with her French husband and son in Paris, and contributes the "Paris For Kids" section in our Events column.
