What Makes Them Great
While I’ll confess to the occasional craving for the chocolate/salty/sweet perfection of a Snickers bar, my deeper, enduring chocolate-passions are definitely for luscious, dark French chocolates. Fabulous chocolates can be found all over France and even better, are available in astonishing abundance across the French capital. Every quarter, it seems, sports alluring and intimate chocolate shops, some tending to the whimsical, some resembling purveyors of fine jewels. Jewels indeed, but deliciously edible ones.
Having tasted chocolates all over Paris and thinking about the remarkable level of quality and variety readily accessible there for chocolate aficionados, I began to wonder what makes master chocolatiers truly great… and what distinguishes their creations from the multitudes that are merely wonderful. And what is it about French-style chocolates that distinguishes them from the estimable chocolates made in Belgium, in the USA or say, from Swiss chocolates?
A recent conversation with Ms. Lisa Kajita, who handles media relations for the very vaut-le-voyage master chocolatier Jean Paul Hevin, shed much light on these questions. First of all, no surprise, the quality of the chocolate is critical to making the very finest bonbons and varied chocolate candies, patisserie and even chocolate for drinking. And like many fine-food commodities, the supply of truly superb chocolate is limited on world markets and is accessible only to chocolatiers who know where to buy, know what to buy and who have enduring relationships with suppliers. Then, there is the knowledge of how to blend variously sourced chocolates with differing butterfat content to create, consistently, the lusciousness-factor, the mouth-feel and the visual appeal. That is just for starters. Next the questions of style come into play. Sound a bit like the world of wine? It is.
The French prefer dark chocolates that are crafted with a goal of perfect flavor equilibrium according to Ms. Kajita. Jean Paul Hevin blends his chocolate to find that absolutely balanced note of chocolate-ness. He then thinks about the relationship with the fillings or the toppings with an eye to pairing flavors that may be complimentary or may contrast in intriguing ways (think Roquefort cheese covered with dark chocolate), but always, that benchmark of equilibrium is critical in the creative process. No one thing should dominate and the entire experience of tasting the chocolate should raise the ‘marriage’ of flavors to a new, complimentary level. This, I decided, is why exquisite dark French chocolates are so satisfyingly delicious, and why it is possible to eat one, well maybe two, and not feel compelled to polish off half of the box.
Another happy fact is that top-quality chocolates high in cocoa content are lower in fat, thus it is possible to enjoy fine chocolates in moderation without undue waistline-worry. What about those other styles of chocolates? Belgian chocolates tend to be higher-fat chocolates and Swiss chocolates tend to be made with milk chocolate. While I’ve enjoyed delicious milk or “light” chocolates in Paris and even surprisingly flavorful white chocolate creations, the richness of those types is derived more from the fat content.
So for sophistication, surprising (but not pushing-the-envelope) flavors and guaranteed gastronomic satisfaction, seek out French-style artisanal chocolates. When in Paris, one can find the perfect chocolate trifecta at Jean Paul Hevin’s 231 rue St. Honore shop and second floor tea salon. Here it is possible to enjoy a decadent chocolate pastry, a cup of surpassingly rich, hand-made chocolat chaud, and, to buy an assortment of superlative chocolates on the way out the door. After such an experience the world looks sunny indeed!
