The Paris Bagel

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The bagel has long lost out to the croissant in Paris. The latter, however, has risen in price and fallen in quality. Where are the great croissants au beurre of yesteryear? You need to be Sherlock Holmes, Columbo or Hercule Poirot to find them these days. The industrial croissants are likely to poison you. And yet, the bagel has hung in there– it’s that resilient New York side of it– after flops in Rue Dauphine and the Marais. A new outlet, the Brooklyn Bagel store, has opened at 79 Quai de Valmy, 10e (Tel 01.42.01.22.14 for deliveries. On line CB facility).   Brooklyn Bagel is small in area but big when it comes to quality. It manages to draw the fashionable away from Prune, the cafe on the corner of Quai de Valmy and Rue Beaurepaire that seeks to be the Deux Magots of 2003. Brooklyn Bagel prices top out at 6.50 euros for a lox (smoked salmon) and cream cheese bagel or for the “Manhattan” (pickle, tomatoes, cornichons etc). Prices fall to five euros for the “Bullet” (tuna, cole slaw) and “Easy Rider” (tuna and cheese). Good brownies and other desserts are available, as well. American ice cream, too. Their friendly staff is a plus. The king of Parisian bagel cafes remains K.Fe.In, 6 Place Ste Opportune (right next to the Place Ste Opportune exit of Chatelet metro). It’s three times the size of the Canal St Martin newcomer (i.e. it seats 40 or so, and is very popular with the young set). Prices are slightly cheaper– 4.50 euros for some bagels– but can go as high as 6.50 euros for more extravagant sandwiches. The selection is bigger, with items like turkey and chicken based sandwiches on poppyseed bagels. It’s run by the son of Les Halles-Marais entrepreneur Richard Pruja, a somewhat mysterious figure who has interests in all kinds of local food outlets. He is a pioneer, God bless him, although rarely seen. He has been committed to the bagel for years. He hedges his bets a bit by adding “salon du the” on his visiting card which however leads off with “bagel house”. Free delivery from 10 euros. Tel 01.42.21.11.52. French bagel king Richard Pruja at the Chatelet outlet says his clientele is 60% French with the remaining 40% Americans, English and lots and lots of Scandinavians, particularly Danish. Locally-based foreigners come at weekends. He sees a big take away potential for bagels in Paris, both to homes and hotels. Brooklyn Bagel 79 Quai de Valmy, 10e Tel 01.42.01.22.14 K.Fe.In 6 Place Ste Opportune Tel 01.42.21.11.52 Bonjour Paris is pleased to have Alan Tillier as a contributor.
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