Destinations

Talented Le Point foodie journalist Gilles Pudlowski is everywhere, from Monsieur Dubon's epicerie á Challans, at Les Nocturnes du 228 at the Hotel Meurice, Le Foire International et Gastronomique de Dijon and, this week The Four Seasons George V, Paris, where he announced the lauréats 2010 of his twentieth Guide Pudlo Le Point Paris surrounded by celebs including Pierre Arditti and Eddy Mitchell. The chef de l'année is Eric Briffard, who 18 months ago replaced Philippe Legendre at Le Cinq, George V's superb gastronomic restaurant.

Le Point is a weekly news magazine, founded in 1972 and currently owned by PPR, a French multinational holding owned by Franҫois-Henri Pinault. Pudlo's pages are cut out and kept by global gastronauts.

And the winners are:

• Chef de l'année: Eric Briffard, Le Cinq, Paris 8th

• Evénement de l'année: Adeline Grattard, Yam'Cha, Paris 1st

• Restaurateur de l'année: Antoine Vigneron, Antoine, Paris16th

• Sommelier de l'année: Gérard Tournier, Ledoyen, Paris 8th>

• Révelation de l'année: Sylvan Sendra, Itinéraires, Paris 5th,

• Bistrot de l'année: David Alberge et Gael Boulay, Mets Gusto, Paris 16th

• Table étrangére de l'année: Oth Sombath, Paris 8th

• Boulanger de l'année: Jacques Genin, Paris 3rd

• Glacier de l'année: Angelo Pastore, Caramella, Paris 1st

Editions Michel Lafon – 18€50

Le Pamphlet

After a successful nip and tuck at the end of 2007, Le Pamphlet has new formulas and lower prices. Chef Alain Carrere (ex-Crillon, Christian Constant) is as feisty as ever. “there is a menu, but I change it all the time," he says. At Pamphlet for 10+ years he's keeping the spirit of the place alive. “We called it Pamphlet because we loathe politicians and we discovered that in the 18th century a pamphlet was a jounalistic tract condemning some aspect of French politics,” he explains.

Menu du marché at 35€ is a three-course lunch or dinner. Could be terrine of duck foie gras, apple and fig. Followed by roast chicken with walnuts and girolle mushrooms. To finish, roast pineapple with Malibu and exotic milk shake or Paris-Brest beautifully made by the pretty young patissiere. Drink Beaujolais “Brouilly” Domaine Crét des Garanches 2008 (gamay & pinot noir) by the glass (7€) or 30€ the bottle.

“If I had my way there would be no menu, but it's the law in France,” grumbles Carrere. If you only want one course at lunch, 20€ gets you “Sur La Pouce” according to the market and the season. “Les pieds sous la table” 65€ is Carrere's surprise tasting menu,and you can also eat a la carte for about 55€ + wine.

If you love game, you'll adore Carrere's roasted wood pigeon, with roast grenaille potatoes and cèpes. Well worth the journey. “They were hunted in the English countryside," grins Carrere. “Not like that one outside," he chuckles. It's a warm autumn day and the door is open.

Le Pamphlet
38 rue Debelleyme, 3rd
Metro: Filles de Calvaire
T: 01 42 72 39 24 (no website yet)
Shut Saturday lunch, Sunday, Monday lunch

Diary Date: 26 November from 7:30, Jazz at the Astor

The delightful Clothilde Rullaud sings jazz and bossa nova while you enjoy a three-course dinner by talented young chef David Mansaud. 48€ or A La Carte.

T: 01 53 05 05 20
www.astorsainthonore.com

La Cave Beauvau

“You can count authentic French bistrots on the fingers of one hand, in Paris and Provence," says Figaro's Maurice Beaudoin. In Paris he cites La Tour de Montlhéry, Le Quincy, Le Paul-Bert. In Cannes, La Cave; Toulouse, Les Abattoirs; Lille, Le Bistrot de Pierrot and La Cucuracha, Bidart. “These never let you down, the owners put proper good products on the plates without the fol-de-rol of some young chefs who think they're artists.”

He adds La Cave Beauvau to his list, calling it “the real thing” now that Stéphane Delleré (Gavroche and Le Duc de Richelieu) is behind the handsome zinc, juggling superb bottles of wines and spirits, carving choice charcuterie. His atmospheric Cave B is just across from the Elysée Palace, but in the 18 months that Delleré has been in residence, he hasn't yet had the pleasure; he may have spotted Carla in the new Prada store, but that's about it.

The writing's on the wall, everywhere. Menus, ideas, suggestions for wines. The cave buzzes from early morning croissants and coffee until the wee small hours when a Segovia-style guitarist serenades the mainly French clientele. Think of a bistro/club atmosphere like you see on the movies where any minute Belmondo walks in and orders lunch or dinner at the bar. Or he'll eat on the first or second floor and is bound to order oeuf mayonnaise (4€50), escargots (7€ for 6), harengs marinées (5€50), or museau vinaigrette (5€). Mains include the signature of a good bistro, andouillette de pays grillé (12€). JP will nip out for a smoke, make NBF's and return for an excellent côte de boeuf pour deux (44€), pied de porc au four (13€) delicious Saint Jacques scallops, or confit de canard. He'll appreciate the Saint Marcellin cheese in perfect condition and the excellent desserts: la tarte du jour, le baba au rhum, la crème brùlée. As Beaudoin reflects, “Between the three stars of Le Bristol and La Cave Beauvau, you have to make a choice."

La Cave Beauvau Bar-Restaurant
4, rue des Saussaies, 8
Metro: Champs Elysees-Clemenceau
T: 01 42 65 24 90
Shut Sunday