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L'Obé, Wa-Bi, R-Ital, & Ducasse BUZZ
L'Obelisque is no more, long live l'Obé the Crillon's neo- brasserie. A few nips and tucks, designer carpet, beautiful tableware, the original Lalique chandeliers look outstanding, you definitely want to pluck one from the ceiling and pop it in the Kelly. How the Princess would love it here, how all Princesses are in for a treat. Last week Marianne Faithfull was tucking in and was that Lily Allen and Muccia Prada? Monsieur Lebey looked content as did publisher Roland Escaig.
The menu, presented like a colour chart, is by Jean-Franҫois Piège, Executive Chef of the Crillon and the 2 (should be 3) Michelin star “Les Ambassadeurs” restaurant. Plump Landes chicken, Bavarian beef, Ris de Veau, Pluma Ibérique (Spanish black pig) and Scottish salmon topped with cucumber, mint, fromage and black pepper, feature. Choose your main then order your side-dish. The ladies who do will go for wok sautéd vegetables or herb salad, Monsieur Lebey probably took macaroni and truffle gratin, mashed potatoes or rice spiked with comté cheese. Starters include crab cocktail with ginger: a spin on Salade Niҫoise: Oeuf cocotte en parfait, shrimp etc. All matched with perfect sommelier suggestions, Sancerre blanc AOC “Florès” 2007 Vincent Pinard, perfect with tender Scottish salmon. One perfect cheese features, say, Saint Nectaire, changes weekly; desserts are jewels as in Rose petal topped Raspberry Religieuse. Flaky mille feuille, chocolate tart. It's worth ordering coffee for the warm madeleines and chocolates.
Piège the perfectionist has developed a distinct culinary style. He's brought the Crillon's restaurants into the 21st century with cuisine that challenges the five senses making each culinary experience a happy memory and, he's always in his kitchen.
l'Obé
Hotel de Crillon,
10 place de la Concorde, 8th
(Metro: Concorde)
T: 01 44 71 15 15
Lunch Mon-Fri 39€ + A La Carte
Formula at 49€ at lunch & dinner
Open 7/7
Former Crillon super-chef Dominique Bouchet launches Odsukarésamadéshita 5, at Wa-Bi Salon, located next door to his eponymous always buzzing, bistro. He'll be serving sakés, green teas and tapas Japanese style. Learn Ikébana and listen to music from 19-22 hrs 20th May. www.wa-bi-salon.com
Another chef always in his kitchen is Ivano Giordani, or he's at Rungis, or he's doing a private dinner for one of his celeb fans who NetJets him to, say, Nurburgring Circuit to cook Formula One food. You remember Italian born Ivano from Beato, rue Malar, a huge space which drove him crazy. “I really wanted a smaller space, where I could receive my guests as in my home”. So here he is in the 17th, a tiny 20-seater jewel box, serving delicious home-made anti-pasti, black pasta, risotto Caterina dei Medici, 
vegetarian and truffle lasagnes, fresh fish from Rungis, all cooked just for you, so be prepared to wait. Maybe take Mark Bittman with you? I don't mean the best selling New York Times author but his just published “Food Matters” – a Guide to Conscious Eating”. Giordani agrees heartily with the concept having recently shed 15 kilos, not easy for a chef. Bittman says since following his own Food Matters regime he's lost 35kilos. Worth a try. Published by Simon and Shuster available from www.amazon.com
Le R-Ital,
25 rue Pierre Demours, 17th
(Metro: Ternes)
T: 01 46 22 02 33
(no site – he's too busy cooking)
Shut Sunday.
“Women buy gift tokens for my Cookery School, they give them to their significant others, then they don't have to cook!”, says Alain Ducasse. L'Ecole de Cuisine Alain Ducasse just launched. Diary date: 29 and 30th May for journées portes ouvertes. Pop in and have a look at:
64 rue Ranelagh, 16th.
www.ecolecuisine-alainducasse.com
