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Literary Paris Hotspots, Part 2
THURSDAY: Henry Miller (6th & 15th arrondissements)Writer Henry Miller was born in New York City in 1891. He grew up in Brooklyn, were he spoke only German until he began school. Miller was a rebellious and difficult youth who resisted his father's desire for him to work at the family tailor shop. Even at an early age he knew he was far too creative to work in any field that did not include writing. He dropped out of college and took numerous odd jobs before deciding on becoming a writer full-time.
In 1915, Miller met pianist Beatrice Sylvas Wickens, and in 1917, they were married. However, the birth of their daughter, financial problems, lack of work, and Miller‚s restlessness created problems for the couple. In 1922 Miller tried writing fiction. His first book "Clipped Wings" mirrored the turmoil in Miller‚s own life, and by 1923 he was ready to change his life.
He met a taxi dancer in a dance hall named June Mansfield and became infatuated with her. By December 1923 Miller had divorced his wife Beatrice and married June. His obsession with the former taxi dancer would continue for the rest of his life.
Late in the year of 1934 became one of Miller‚s most productive writing periods. Some of Miller‚s best-known work includes The Tropic of Capricorn, The Colossus of Maroussi, The Air-Conditioned Nightmare, and Nexus.
24, rue Bonaparte (6th arrondt) Formerly the Hôtel de Paris; Miller and his wife stayed here in 1928
36, Saint-Germain-des-Prés (6th arrondt) - Miller and his wife stayed at the Hôtel here in 1930. They rented a room for 500 francs (20 dollars at the time). He was thrilled to be in Paris and wrote a friend that "the streets sing, the stones sing. The houses drip with history, glory, and romance."
2 rue Auguste-Bartholdi (15th) Métro: Duplex - In 1930 this was Miller's first winter in Paris. He was broke and starving when he met Richard Osborn, a lawyer, who gave Miller a place to stay in a seven-floor walk-up overlooking the Eiffel tour.
5 rue Lamartine (9th) Métro: Cadet - In 1931, Miller got a job at the Tribune as a proofreader. Only editorial staff was permitted to publish articles, therefore Miller submitted articles under the name of "Perlès."
FRIDAY: Langston Hughes (17th arrondissement)
Langston Hughes, a poet, playwright, fiction writer, autobiographer, and anthologist was born in Joplin, Missouri in 1902. Hughes, one of the most versatile black writers of the twentieth century, was known for his use of Black Vernacular English and black cultural references in his writing. Influenced by the poetry of Paul Laurence Dunbar and Carl Sandburg, his love for writing began at an early age. Hughes was also influenced by black music, especially blues and jazz.
Langston Hughes‚ poems are often described as "lyrical" in the musical sense, and combine many of the same elements as the words in blues songs. An important period in Hughes‚ development as a writer was the Harlem Renaissance; a flourishing of artistic expression by African Americans centered in the community of Harlem in New York City in the 1920s. In this community of "New Negro" writers were Countee Cullen, Wallace Thurman, Eric Walrond, Arna Bontemps, and Zora Neale Hurston. In 1925, Hughes won first prize in a poetry contest for his poem "The Weary Blues‚" and the following year his first volume of poetry was published by Alfred A. Knopf.
In 1940, Hughes published his first, very candid, autobiography entitled "The Big Sea". In 1942, he began writing a weekly column for the Chicago Defender that produced Jesse B. Semple, a character who would feature in five books and an off-Broadway play. Semple has been called one of the most original comic creations in American journalism. Hughes was a prolific writer and black America's most original poet.
15, Rue Nollet (17th arrondt) Métro: La Fourche
Langston Hughes rented a room here in April 1924. He was 22 years old and worked as a dishwasher and waiter at the well-known Grand Duc nightclub in Pigalle. At the end of the year, Hughes left for Italy.
LITERARY CAFES AND BARS IN PARIS
Paris is filled with lovely little cafes and bars, in addition to many literary cafes that also serve good food along with their intellectual fare. Don't forget to check out some of their splendid wine lists!
Café des Phares
7, place de la Bastille
Neighborhood: 4th arrondissement. (33 1) 42 72 04 70
In 1992, this bar began having afternoons of philosophical debate. Every Sunday morning at 11 sharp, the old and young confront each other about issues of ideology or literature. These "reflection sessions" usually get very crowded so make sure you get there early enough! In the summer, you can take your debate out on the terrace!
Open: 7am-2am every day (3am-4am Sat-Sun).
Métro: Bastille
Disabled access is available.
Marronniers
8, Rue des Archives
Neighborhood: 4th arrondt. (33 1) 40 27 87 72
This literary venue organizes reading evenings on Wednesdays. It is one of the friendliest bars in the area. Although the clientele is quite young and laid-back, people of all ages should feel welcome. In the summer, it is best to arrive early in order to find a seat on the terrace.
Open: 7am-2am every day.
Métro: Hôtel de Ville.
Disabled access is available.
Lapin Agile
22, rue des Saules
Neighborhood: 18th arrondt. (33 1) 46 06 85 87
This lovely old country shack is now a cabaret and has an interesting history. In 1860, the Cabaret des Assassins opened in this building; in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the Lapin Agile (Agile Rabbit) frequently hosted artists like Picasso, and Apollinaire.
Nowadays, poetry is the specialty of the house and you can find many writers and journalists here. The walls are covered with souvenirs, paintings, poems, and testimonies. Every night, singers and poets perform a four-hour show (primarily in French). Great atmosphere, and audience participation is encouraged.
Admission: Call for price. One drink included.
Open: 9pm-2am (shows) Tue-Sun night.
Métro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt
Disabled access is available.
L'Autre Parnasse
1, Rue de la Grande-Chaumière
Neighborhood: 6th arrondt. (33 1) 43 54 98 98
This half-café, half-bookshop venue stocks more than three thousand books relating to Mediterranean culture. It also hosts a literary night every Monday.
Open: 9am-7pm Mon-Sat.
Métro: Vavin
Disabled access is available.
Bar Hemingway
Hôtel Ritz
4, Place Vendôme
Neighborhood: 1st arrondt. (33 1) 43 16 30 30
No literary itinerary would be complete without a trip to Bar Hemingway. However, dress well and come ready to spend money. This is not an inexpensive place but Bar Hemingway is well worth it. Located in the Hôtel Ritz, the bar is a favorite of the privileged classes, and Americans who prefer upscale venues. They also serve the best Ginger Martinis this side of the world!
Disabled access is available.
Paris Reflections takes its readers on six walking tours through the historic districts of Paris, where for more than two centuries, African-Americans have lived, worked, and created a rich and vibrant legacy of achievement in art, literature, science, business, sport, social reform, and other fields. From the last decades of the 18th century to the present, this legacy has been shaped by such people as Sally Hemmings, Victor Séjour, Ada "Bricktop" Smith, Jack Johnson, Josephine Baker, Langston Hughes, Richard Wright, Sidney Bechet, and James Baldwin. Available from Amazon.com and McDonald & Woodward Publishing.
