Life in a Palace in France

29 January 2007 by Robert Korengold 511

They call them “Palaces” in France. But here we are not talking about royal residences for kings and princes. We are talking about fancy—make that super-fancy—tourist hotels mostly in Paris, but also in some of the country’s best known vacation spots, particularly the Côte d’Azur. The French word for “palace” is “palais”; however, France isn’t ruled by kings or princes anymore. Of note is the Palais de l’Elysée, the residence and working headquarters for the President of the French Républic, Jacques Chirac. If a French person uses the English word “palace,” you can be sure he or she means a top-of-the-line hotel. In terms of prestige they would be akin to the Waldorf in New York, the Fairmont in San Francisco, the Savoy in London or other luxurious counterparts around the world. In Paris, for nearly 70 years, there have been only six of them—the Ritz, the Plaza Athénée, the George V, the Crillon, the Bristol and the Meurice—all clustered near the center of the city. All are noted for their multi-starred restaurants, and snappily uniformed doormen and car attendants. Their concierge staff is used to dealing with the most outrageous tasks required by its demanding clients, including middle-east potentates arriving with little notice but with entourages of 40 or more persons in tow. At a “palace” if the thought that you need something simply crosses your mind a staff member is at your side within moments to inquire what it is that you desire. Checking the parking areas near their entrances will also give you some indicators; if you see a bevy of shiny limousines, that’s a good sign. However, a tourist bus, the kind that wouldn’t look out of place at even the most luxurious Hilton or Sheraton hotels around the world, would be unthinkable outside a “palace” in France. The Ritz, which is encircled by expensive jewellery stores on the Place Vendome, was where Princess Diana stayed when she had her famous and fatal auto accident. The Meurice, near the Louvre, draws its clientele heavily from France’s wealthiest, often titled, families. The Plaza Athénée, nestled amid the haute couture boutiques of the Avenue Montaigne, is awash with middle-eastern royalty and Russian oligarchs for whom price is no object. The Bristol, a short walk from the Palais de l’Elysée, caters to ultra-successful industrialists, businessmen and politicians as does the Crillon, on the Place de la Concorde. Traditionally, movie and rock stars gravitate towards the George V, near the capital’s famed Champs Elysées boulevard. There is no official board that judges and awards the title of “palace”, but for those to whom it applies the designation has been something that is accepted as evident and since the George V arrived on the scene in 1928, before then there hadn’t been any additions to the exclusive club. Recently, however, another French revolution has taken place on the “palace” front. Without asking anyone’s official permission, and actually there’s no authorizing organization to give such approval, the latest luxury hotel to go up in Paris, Fouquet’s Barrière, on a corner of the Champs Elysées, has been calling itself a “palace” in its advertising and other public communication. An upstart it may be, but it has considerable justification to join the exclusive “palace” club. In effect a monumental extension of Fouquet’s, the ultra-chic brasserie bar that for years has served as a “must” rendezvous for France’s own cinema, theatre, journalistic and literary celebrities, the Barrière is financed by the Lucien Barrière hotel and casino chain. They have owned Fouquet’s since 1999 and pretty much dominate the swanky gambling emporiums of France’s seaside and other vacation resorts. The Lucien Barrière chain knew what it was doing. After laying down 75 million Euros (almost 100 million dollars) for two years of construction work, they now have, linked to their already famous brasserie, a hotel with 197 rooms, 40 percent of them suites, aimed at newly or traditionally rich travellers from all over the world. That includes America, Russia, Kazakhstan, Japan or other Asian countries. Without hesitation these guests are paying an average 750 euros a night (not quite 1,000 dollars) for a room, and double or more for a suite. For the price, Fouquet’s Barrière has at their service a 350 person staff, meaning roughly 2.5 staff members for each room which is a standard mark of distinction for a “palace” hotel. But then so do the others; if they didn’t, they wouldn’t be “palaces.” A few examples: The Crillon, which is the only hotel on the Place de la Concorde, is the traditional ceremonial center for French national military or historical celebrations; it was the place where King Louis XVI was beheaded by French revolutionaries in the 18th century. Boasting unbeatable views across the Concorde toward the French National Assembly building on the other side of the Seine; the Crillon rents its grandest suite for a mere 16,890 Euros a night (more than 20,000 dollars). It offers a rare glass of L’Heraut 1802 cognac in its bar for only 1,250 Euros (about 1,600 dollars) and if you want to host a gastronomic dinner for your friends in its two-starred Ambassadeurs restaurant, be prepared for a bill up to 10,000 Euros (12,900 dollars), plus tip. Even at those prices, year round the hotel is 80 percent booked…

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They call them “Palaces” in France. But here we are not talking about royal residences for kings and princes.

We are talking about fancy—make that super-fancy—tourist hotels mostly in Paris, but also in some of the country’s best known vacation spots, particularly the Côte d’Azur.

The French word for “palace” is “palais”; however, France isn’t ruled by kings or princes anymore. Of note is the Palais de l’Elysée, the residence and working headquarters for the President of the French Républic, Jacques Chirac.

If a French person uses the English word “palace,” you can be sure he or she means a top-of-the-line hotel.

In terms of prestige they would be akin to the Waldorf in New York, the Fairmont in San Francisco, the Savoy in London or other luxurious counterparts around the world.

In Paris, for nearly 70 years, there have been only six of them—the Ritz, the Plaza Athénée, the George V, the Crillon, the Bristol and the Meurice—all clustered near the center of the city.

All are noted for their multi-starred restaurants, and snappily uniformed doormen and car attendants. Their concierge staff is used to dealing with the most outrageous tasks required by its demanding clients, including middle-east potentates arriving with little notice but with entourages of 40 or more persons in tow.

At a “palace” if the thought that you need something simply crosses your mind a staff member is at your side within moments to inquire what it is that you desire.

Checking the parking areas near their entrances will also give you some indicators; if you see a bevy of shiny limousines, that’s a good sign. However, a tourist bus, the kind that wouldn’t look out of place at even the most luxurious Hilton or Sheraton hotels around the world, would be unthinkable outside a “palace” in France.

The Ritz, which is encircled by expensive jewellery stores on the Place Vendome, was where Princess Diana stayed when she had her famous and fatal auto accident. The Meurice, near the Louvre, draws its clientele heavily from France’s wealthiest, often titled, families. The Plaza Athénée, nestled amid the haute couture boutiques of the Avenue Montaigne, is awash with middle-eastern royalty and Russian oligarchs for whom price is no object. The Bristol, a short walk from the Palais de l’Elysée, caters to ultra-successful industrialists, businessmen and politicians as does the Crillon, on the Place de la Concorde. Traditionally, movie and rock stars gravitate towards the George V, near the capital’s famed Champs Elysées boulevard.

There is no official board that judges and awards the title of “palace”, but for those to whom it applies the designation has been something that is accepted as evident and since the George V arrived on the scene in 1928, before then there hadn’t been any additions to the exclusive club.

Recently, however, another French revolution has taken place on the “palace” front. Without asking anyone’s official permission, and actually there’s no authorizing organization to give such approval, the latest luxury hotel to go up in Paris, Fouquet’s Barrière, on a corner of the Champs Elysées, has been calling itself a “palace” in its advertising and other public communication.

An upstart it may be, but it has considerable justification to join the exclusive “palace” club.

In effect a monumental extension of Fouquet’s, the ultra-chic brasserie bar that for years has served as a “must” rendezvous for France’s own cinema, theatre, journalistic and literary celebrities, the Barrière is financed by the Lucien Barrière hotel and casino chain. They have owned Fouquet’s since 1999 and pretty much dominate the swanky gambling emporiums of France’s seaside and other vacation resorts.

The Lucien Barrière chain knew what it was doing. After laying down 75 million Euros (almost 100 million dollars) for two years of construction work, they now have, linked to their already famous brasserie, a hotel with 197 rooms, 40 percent of them suites, aimed at newly or traditionally rich travellers from all over the world. That includes America, Russia, Kazakhstan, Japan or other Asian countries. Without hesitation these guests are paying an average 750 euros a night (not quite 1,000 dollars) for a room, and double or more for a suite.

For the price, Fouquet’s Barrière has at their service a 350 person staff, meaning roughly 2.5 staff members for each room which is a standard mark of distinction for a “palace” hotel. But then so do the others; if they didn’t, they wouldn’t be “palaces.”

A few examples: The Crillon, which is the only hotel on the Place de la Concorde, is the traditional ceremonial center for French national military or historical celebrations; it was the place where King Louis XVI was beheaded by French revolutionaries in the 18th century.

Boasting unbeatable views across the Concorde toward the French National Assembly building on the other side of the Seine; the Crillon rents its grandest suite for a mere 16,890 Euros a night (more than 20,000 dollars). It offers a rare glass of L’Heraut 1802 cognac in its bar for only 1,250 Euros (about 1,600 dollars) and if you want to host a gastronomic dinner for your friends in its two-starred Ambassadeurs restaurant, be prepared for a bill up to 10,000 Euros (12,900 dollars), plus tip.

Even at those prices, year round the hotel is 80 percent booked because the Crillon generally aims at a clientele whose annual income surpasses five million dollars and can afford the rooms. Within a million or so, so do the others.

Take the George V, the last “palace” on the scene before the arrival of the Fouquet’s Barrière, opened in 1928. Following a major overhaul between 1997 and 1999 by its latest owner, Saudi Prince al-Walid, it has regularly won media and tourist industry recognition as one of the best hotels in the world.

Used as a headquarters by general Dwight D. Eisenhower for 18 months after the end of World War II, the George V’s guest register includes the names of Greta Garbo, Vivien Leigh, Orson Welles, Cary Grant, Audrey Hepburn, the Beatles, the Rolling Stones, Madonna, Bill Clinton, Henry Kissinger and Bill Gates, among others.

Even if you aren’t of the financial milieu that lets you contemplate an overnight stay, or longer, in a “palace,” it is easy to soak up some of the sense of luxury they provide without breaking the bank. Simply stroll through their lobbies, or relax with a drink in their tea rooms or bars and watch the world of wealth and fame go by.

It won’t be cheap, but it will be an unforgettable experience.