Grand Palais
This magnificent building faces the Champs-Elysees between the metro stops Champs-Elysees/Clemenceau and Franklin D. Roosevelt. The building is striking, with its double stairway entrance and glass domed roof and cupola. It was built for the 1900 World’s Fair at the same time as the Alexandre III Bridge and the Petit Palais nearby. The stone structure, adorned with much Art Nouveau ironwork as well as a bronze Quad Riga (four horsed chariot) sculpture, houses special temporary art exhibits. The exhibits are protected by a major police station in the basement.
While it takes a while to gain entry because of the crowds, the art shows are usually worth seeing. What I saw today, for example, was an exhibit of works by Klimt, Schiele, Moser and Kokoschka which closes Jan. 23rd. This show, like the Grand Palais’ many others, is first class.
There are cloakrooms, modern toilets, a souvenir shop and cafeteria. The building is spacious but still crowded because of the popularity of the collections.
Interior:
Not very spectacular, with light blue wooden walls that show the paintings well. The descriptions are white on light blue and very difficult to read from afar.
Caution:
Purchase your tickets in advance. Even if you have an appropriated time, you may have to wait outside. It can be hot, raining or very cold. Those without tickets line up in a different line and may wait twice as long to enter. Once inside you may be jostled by the crowds or have trouble seeing the exhibits over everyone else. There are many guards around to assist you but limited space to rest.
Cameras are not permitted.
Our Opinion:
For art lovers in Paris you’ll get your money’s worth at the Grand Palais. The problem is the time it takes to see the exhibit with the omnipresent crowds. The rooms are drab and uninteresting, but that’s not why you go. We found viewing difficult at times, but the exhibits and descriptions are top notch. Even with the long waits, the experience is worth it. Minimize your wait by purchasing your tickets in advance.
A brief word about the current exhibition, Vienna 1900:
These artists all came from central Europe and lived around the turn of the 20th century. There was greatness in all four of them but the subject matter did change as some devoted their style to mythology from Greek or Germanic traditions, while Schiele was devoted to sex and love. But his work should be included with the others. I particularly enjoyed Klimt’s Woman with a Hat and Boa done in black with a porcelain-looking doll’s face. His 1890 Portrait of Josef Pembauer looks like a photograph. It is alive and almost 3-dimensional in its ornate gold frame.
Façade and Grounds:
The façade is gray but impressive. The grounds are not especially pleasing as the entrance is roped off for the ever present lines of people. The setting is nice on the broad boulevard of the Champs Elysees landscaped with splendid trees. There always seems to be work in progress however, which can deter from its beauty.
Best Time to Go:
For me it’s always crowded even though the exhibits last for four months or longer. First thing in the morning when it opens might be best or at the end of the day but leave ample time to see the exhibits. Wednesday evening may be better as the museum is open late.
Address:
3, av. Eisenhower
Paris 70008
Door A
Telephone 01 13 17 17
www.rmn.fr\galariesnationalesdugrandpalais
Minimum Time:
To wait in line can take up to two hours. Once you are inside, we recommend at least one and a half hours plus lunch and a visit to the souvenir shop.
Getting There:
The best way is by Metro. It is a short walk from the Champs Elysees stops at Clemenceau or Franklin D Roosevelt
Tours:
This is not the best place for an art tour but groups can walk around on their own with audio guides.
Hours:
Open daily except Tuesday from 10:20 to 8 pm and until 10 pm on Wed.
Last entrance 45 minutes before closing.
Cost:
Regular price is 10 Euros. Prices can vary according to exhibitions.
Inquire about seniors, groups and children. Tel: 01 44 13 17 17
Parking:
On the street if you are lucky. We suggest that you go by Metro.
Disability:
Limited. Call ahead.
Toilets:
At entrance and near cafeteria.
