Gault Millau Buzz
The Clipper Paris (www.clipperparis.com) was the launch pad for GaultMillau Paris 2008. A neat little guide with 2250 addresses, restaurants, hotels, wine cellars, markets.
Easy to read, chic black and white cover. Accents are on young talents, such as genius chocolatier Patrick Roger, Christophe Martin, the best butcher in Paris, and Charly Hanafi the city's most charismatic fishmonger. Meet them all on the pages of this excellent guide.
Created in the 1960's by two food-obsessed writers, Henri Gault and Christian Millau, Gault & Millau magazine became the foodie bible for followers of “La Nouvelle Cuisine”, reporting the creations of Bocuse (yes, he was considered “Nouvelle Cuisine” in those days) Jean and Pierre Troigros, Michel Guérard, Roger Vergé and Raymond Oliver, all owed their expertise to their mentor Fernand Point.
The style Gault & Millau wrote about was a reaction to Escoffier's heavy haute cuisine, they created the ten commandments of the new cooking, out went the béchamel sauce thickened with flour, in came jus and natural juices. They pioneered new techniques, modern equipment and were there when Bocuse played with his new toy – a microwave oven! Chefs may owe their all to the likes of Escoffier and Point; food writers acknowledge the amazing foresight of Gault & Millau.
“We're carrying on their concept, confirming our place in the gastronomy of the 21st century, daring, modern, strong, informative”, said GM Director of the Guide and GaultMillau Magazine, Patricia Alexander. http://www.guides-gaultmillau .fr/
GaultMillau award the self-taught Inaki Aizpitarte 14/20 and a red heart. At present he's travelling in India, his team are minding the store. Talk about testosterone, if you're young and pretty (and female) get over there, it's erotic and that's just the boudin compote!
Philippe Legendre gets 17/20 and 3 toques for Le Cinq at The George V Four Seasons, it shows how guides are out of date almost before they hit the kiosques, rumours have been stewing for some time that Legendre would quit the kitchens – to-day it's announced. Watch this space.
With 15/20 and two toques in GM, after months of speculation, it's confirmed 2-star Michelin super-chef Helene Darroze succeeds Angela Hartnett at The Connaught Hotel, London. "Helene Darroze at The Connaught" launches in June with interior design by Paris-based architect India Mahdavi.
Ms Darroze also takes charge of “The Gallery”, an informal dining-room, overlooking Carlos Place. She will also be responsible for the revivial of the legendary Connaught Grill when it re-opens in the Autumn. And room-service, thought to be the reason Hartnett quit.
Ms Darroze, whose great grandfather was a patissier, great grandmother a cook, and her parents restaurant owners in the South-West region of France,will divide her time between Paris and London, and, when in London will be living in a Mayfair flat, tres BCBG.
"Expansion was not really my idea, but when I visited The Connaught, I fell in love with the hotel and its ' history. I love their philosophy of offering only the finest products - just as I do", she explains.
Darroze, a disciple of Alain Ducasse, began her brilliant career in the kitchens of The Louis XV, Monte Carlo, then went on to run her family's restaurant in Villeneuve-de-Marsan before launching her eponymous restaurant in Paris in 1999. Recently Darroze added Toustem, a chic left-bank bistro, to her group. The Connaught, is just completing a £70 million restoration. See you there there then.
And also see you at Jean in the Quartier Saint Lazare. After twenty years chez Taillevent, Jean-Frederic Guidoni and his wife Delphine opened Jean. Anthony Bouchet is at the pianos. He's a young talent who's worked for the likes of Petrossian and Conticini at La Table d'Anvers (in fact his ex-boss was happily eating lunch the day BUZZ visited).
For his menu du jour last Tuesday Bouchet served Royale of Celery with foie gras, Granny Smith Apples and lovage. The main of plump St. Jacques, sorrel and cauliflower was topped with herring eggs.
A side dish of quinoa.
There's a Franco-American feel in the kitchen, as Alison
Johnson gets in her stride. Not long arrived from NYC, Alison is as pretty and elegant as her patisserie. Le Caramel is a Moelleux au caramel, with roasted pineapple, rum, pineapple-sorbet and herbs. This is what the French call an addresse confidential, youll love it. Great selection of wines, and plenty by the glass if it's the chauffeur's night off.
Address Book
GaultMillau2008 15€
Available now.
The Connaught,
Carlos Place, London W1 K
T: 44 (1) 207 499 7070
Jean Restaurant,
8 rue Saint-Lazare (Metro: Notre-Dame-de-Lorette)
T: 01 48 78 62 73
Lunch – 46€ + wine + A La Carte
Dinner – Tasting menu 6 dishes – 85€ - 4 dishes 65€ + wine
Lovely 1st floor Private Room.
La Chateaubriand,
129 avenue Parmentier, 11th (Metro: Goncourt)
T: 01 43 57 45 95
Menu Unique 40€ + wine Lunch 14€ + wine
