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French Cooking: Champignons de Paris

Champignons de Paris were actually "born" in Versailles, France. It was the famous gardener of Louis XIV, La Quintinie, who began the cultivation of the white button mushrooms, even though there were difficulties in their production because the winter seasons were too cold and the summers were too hot.  It was later — during the epoch of Napoleon 1st — that the mushrooms were growing abundantly in the Paris catacombs. (It was then, I suppose, that the name champignons de Paris became commonly used.) Sadly, years later, with the construction of the Paris métro, the growth of mushrooms declined in the area of Paris.

Fortunately, it was discovered that an ideal climate for cultivating white mushrooms were the caves along the Loire River. The caves are not natural, but were quarried in the 15th and 16th century by the builders of the great châteaux. The galleries make it very easy to provide the needed constant temperature, humidity and darkness. Of course, today the cultivation is on a large scale — each year Frances produces 200,000 tons of mushrooms. France is the #1 European producer and 70% come from the city of Saumur.

Select firm white mushrooms. They should be eaten within two days after buying to appreciate their wonderful flavor. Store them wrapped up in newspaper at room temperature.

• 1 lb. small firm whole mushrooms
• 3⁄4 cup red wine vinegar
• 1⁄4 cup olive oil
• 1⁄4 cup vegetable oil
• 1⁄4 cup water
• 1 bay leaf, crushed
• 1 tsp. dried tarragon
• 1 garlic clove, crushed
• salt and pepper, to taste

Rinse mushrooms and wipe dry. Cut off stems. In a large bowl, combine the vinegar, oils, water, bay leaf, tarragon, garlic, salt and pepper. Mix well. Add mushrooms. Cover and refrigerate overnight or for two days. Stir occasionally. Take mushrooms out of the marinade, place in a bowl and serve with toothpicks. (These can keep for several days in their marinade in the refrigerator.)
 

Et voilà!