Eye Prefer Paris Tour of the Marais: Beyond the Gated Courtyards
Paris is hidden behind incredible gated courtyards,” said Richard Nahem, my guide for the Eye Prefer Paris Tour of the Marais, as he weaved in and out of the cobblestone squares and streets. He was right. Paris is the most famed and romanticized city in the world not only for its glamorous surface, but also for its hidden fibers that weave its character. The small local restaurants, the secret gardens behind the gates, the famous novelty shops, and the best chocolatier in town all contribute to its pulse. Nahem has made it his job to discover these fibers and to share it with others through the Eye Prefer Paris Tours.
I met Richard by the St. Paul metro station. He came with a pack of colorful index cards, but I soon found that they simply served a decorative purpose—he knew all the spots by heart, pointing out remarkable gardens and little shops were hidden from view. It seems to me that Nahem has a great sense of direction that he attributes to his three years living in the Marais. He walks with firm, self-assured steps even while crossing the road without crosswalks, a testament of his Parisianness and familiarity with the area. Despite his three years in France, he retains a distinct Americanism that is traceable through his accent, his friendliness, and his ceaseless amazement of the city. Owner of the Eye Prefer Paris blog, Richard Nahem has traded in his cutlery, catering know-how, and a career as a chef in New York for a pen (cyberistically speaking), a residence in the Marais, and an open heart towards the discovery of all things Parisian.
Richard briefed me on the history of the Marais, at the start of the tour. Meaning “marsh,” the Marais began as farming land and has expanded into one of the most gorgeous quartiers in Paris. One of the oldest neighborhoods in Paris, the area was first developed in the 12th century and grew to be the residence of aristocracy but fell into ruin during the Revolution. In 1969, the Marais was declared as a secteur sauvegardé (protected sector) because of its many historical sites. The feel of the Marais is heavily shrouded in history, as it is one of the only areas that preserved the style of Medieval and Renaissance architecture.
After Richard led me on a short walk from the metro station, I found myself in the Place du Marché Sainte Catherine. My tour guide led me straight to Exceptions Gourmandes, a small patisserie that had macaroons, lollipops, brioche, marshmallows, biscuits, nougat and praline spreads that looked too good to eat. We then came upon La Vassellerie, a lovely little shop with kitchen items and novelty gifts. As Richard proudly told me that he was a frequent customer, he took the souvenir that I was about to buy and handed it to the cashier for speedy service, one of the perks of being on a tour with Richard. The two-hour tour took me to the Hotel the Sully, which is the center of the national monuments with the Caisse Nationale des Monuments Historiques et des Sites; the Musée Cagnacq-Jay, which houses an impressive 18th century art collection; le Musée Carnavalet; the Hotel de Beauvais in which Mozart himself stayed in 1763, the Rue de Rosiers, a major center of the Jewish Paris community; and the beautiful Stain Gervais Church.
Walking with Richard on the tour was kind of like a sensory inundation, as he pointed out place after place. The arches of the Place de Vosges rose before me, its art galleries and high end stores drawing me to them. The gentle sound of a violin in the distance behind the square made everything seem so poetic. The little rose garden on the Rue de Hesse emitted a faint but soothing scent in the air. The texture of the special paper made of dried vegetables in the Calligrane stationery store seemed impressively smooth. The perfumed aroma of incense and tea from Mariage Frères, the oldest tea shop in Paris, Mariage Frères, (dating from 1854) made you almost want to see the tea museum on the second floor. It was certainly another kind of sight seeing.
After two months of staying in Paris, I considered myself acclimated to Parisian culture. But perhaps in thinking so, I confined myself to outside the “gated courtyards” so to speak, imposing upon myself a certain expectation and complaisance that restricted my Parisian experience. The Eye Prefer Paris tour reminded me that you should always carry the spirit of discovery especially in a city like Paris, where hidden treasures can be found with a bit of luck and an open heart. So I urge you to explore the gated courtyards, as Richard has done, and to remember that the best things are worth the search.
You can visit Richard’s blog at www.eyepreferparis.com
Some of the sites visited on the Eye Prefer Paris Tour:
Exceptions Gourmande
Place du Marché Sainte Catherine
75004 Paris
Open from 1 pm to 11 pm every day
Tel: 01 42 77 16 50
Metro: St Paul
La Vaissellerie
92 rue St-Antoine
75004 Paris
Tel: 01 42 72 76 66
Metro: St Paul
For other locations: www.lavaissellerie.com
Calligrane
6 Rue du Pont Louis Pllippe
75004 Paris
Open from Tuesday to Saturday from 11 am to 7 pm
Mariage Frères
30 & 35 Rue du Bourg-Tibourg
75004 Paris
Open Tuesday to Sunday 12:30 pm to 7 pm
Tel: 01 42 72 28 11
Metro: St Paul
For other locations: www.mariagefreres.com
