Brunch du Monde Crillon
“Les Nouveaux Brunchs”, every French magazine with a foodie page is
promoting brunch, like they’ve just discovered the (wagon) wheel! According to author Linda Stradley (www.whatscookingamerica.net) there are two versions as to the history of brunch. Primo, it was invented due to a massive hangover! Lemuel Benedict a regular at The Waldorf told (in those days the customer was king) chef Oscar Tschirky, “instead of my regular order gimme buttered toast, crispy bacon, two poached eggs and a hooker of hollandaise”. Chef was so delighted with the result that he put Benedict’s dish on his breakfast and lunch menus, substituting crisp bacon with Canadian bacon and toasted English muffin for toasted bread.Prior to that credit is given to Delmonico’s, the first restaurant, or public dining room, ever opened in the USA (1860). A rather grand lady who lunched, Mrs LeGrand Benedict (so the story goes, believe it or not) finding nothing to her liking on Delmonico’s menu summoned “Executive” Chef Charles Ranhofer, threatened to report him to Michelin (only joking!). The terrified cook ran back into his kitchen and, instead of running a knife through his gut, à la Vatel, came up with Eggs Benedict! Of course, Mrs. LeG loved it; find the original recipe in Ranhofer’s cookbook, “The Epicurean”, published in 1894.
Brunchez vous, it gives a whole sexy new meaning to lazy Sunday: No jackets required. Even at The Hotel de Crillon, although just the thought of walking into the magnificent Les Ambassadeurs mini-mirrored Versailles-style restaurant, makes me want to put on a veste, and I’m not a bloke!
Since La Rentrée, Jean-Francois Piège has created the ultimate Brunch du Monde, a sophisticated witty spin on brunching. “It’s somewhat of a revolution in the world of haute cuisine”, he admits. Piege (2**Michelin, alert readers will know) reasons that people who may not come to The Crillon now pop in for Sunday Brunch, bring the family (children half-price, and maybe grannie if she can prove she has no teeth!) and then, because they enjoy it so much, return for lunch/ dinner during the week. “The link between the formality of lunch and the simplicity of breakfast”, is how Piège defines his brunch concept.
The menu, having several choices, begins with a French oeuf en cocotte with foie gras (better than old ma Benedict’s) continues with a sumptuous buffet of Norwegian smoked salmon, raw ham from Joselito Reserva, then a choice of three hot dishes, and the perfect cheese board by Quatrehomme. Young brunchers (future clients, so they must be taken special care of) have a thoughtful menu created for them. On the table, jams by Christine Ferber, croissants, yogurts, fresh fruits, and the Crillon Travel Cake, “look, no crumbs”, smiles Piège.
Background music is by Beatrice Ardisson, desserts are buffet style, atmosphere is “party, party”.
“C’est la version chic et couture d’une collection haute de gamme”, comments Figaroscope.
So why not getta bitta culture with our brunch?
Not a lot of people know that the magnificent Musée Jacquemart-André, constructed by architect Henri Parent, serves a bon brunch in the original salle where the eponymous owners once dined. Very Second Empire darling, what with the Tiepolo trompe l’oeil ceilings, outrageous outsize wall hangings depicting the story of Achilles. But what about the brunch? Not bad, not bad, try and get a table on the outside terrace, heated in winter. It’s brunch so there’s the usual suspects, oeufs “Benedict” cocottes aux fines herbes. Fresh orange juice, salade de pommes de terre, smoked salmon, croissants, desserts. No smoking, no jackets and no cellphones. And après walk around the museum and gasp open-mouthed at the Fragonards, Botticellis, Rembrandt’s Bouchers….And if you still want animation Parc Monceau beckons, just across the road. This is why you came to Paris, chérie.
Address Book:
“Brunch du Monde” at the Hotel de Crillon,
10 place de la Concorde, 8th (Metro: Concorde)
T: 01 44 71 16 16
Sundays 12:noon- 3pm 60€ - Children 30€
Musee Jacquemart-André,
159 Boulevard Hausssmann, 8th (Metro: Miromesnil)
T: 01 45 62 04 44
Sundays 11am-3pm – 24€
