Bois de Boulogne
The Paris Beach is a nice idea, of course, but the reality of big city pollution and that God-awful humidity, that clammy stickiness that climbs down your throat and sticks pins in your eyes as you stumble from one cold drink to the next and get stressed out performing the simplest of daily tasks, is a forceful reminder that much more is needed.And what about the kids? Stuck in the city, their little legs unable to take the stressed-out pace as their unhinged parents tick off sights and sounds on the ‘must do’ list, before being sharply slapped when the inevitable tantrum comes? And what can be said for all that hot, dark poison hammering into their developing lungs as they are dragged from one central city hotspot to another?
No problem. The city of Paris has two huge lungs of its own: The Bois de Vincennes, out beyond the 12th Arrondissement in the south-east of Paris, and the Bois de Boulogne, running down the west side of the posh 16th. Both areas are huge expanses of green, filled with distractions and entertainment for adults and kids alike, as well as all the fresh air and coolly manicured tranquillity needed to smooth stressed out minds and strained nervous systems—whilst keeping the children happy and occupied.
I headed west, intending to check out a small section of the huge Bois de Boulogne (almost 900 hectares of woods and water,) as well as some of the highlights of the old village of Passy in the Southern part of the 16th (Coming in Part Three).
I had read in a leaflet somewhere that the Jardin d’ Acclimatation in the Bois de Boulogne was a good spot for families, so I took Metro option Porte Maillot, line 1, and started following the hard to miss road signs that lead straight to a kiddie train service leading to the principle entry point of the garden.
Other options are Les Sablons, line 1, followed by a 150m walk down rue d’Orléans, or bus numbers: 43, 73, 82, PC, 174. Normal ticket price for the train ride is 5.00 euros, which includes entry into the garden. It runs 11am - 6.00pm every ten minutes. The garden is open 365 days a year—June to September, from 10am - 7pm; and October to May, from 10am - 6pm.
I had headed out west in full BP Tourist Guise: sun-tan lotion, Ray-ban shades, rucksack with water, maps and pack-away rain-jacket, and I was prepared to annoy my victims for BP Reader information with a tenacity that would put Detective Columbo to shame.
I was an undercover journalist all the way down the line, but the thought of getting on that little train gave me pause for thought, so I removed my Ray-bans and imagined what Clint Eastwood would look like sitting on one of those little seats: cigar clutched between his teeth, eyes-squinting, hat tilted, poncho flapping in the wind. To be honest, he looked comical, so I decided to walk.
I simply continued straight past the ticket-box, walking parallel to the track. It was a two-minute walk, but it made me glad that I had brought my rain-jacket as the bizarre weather turned from an imposing sudden darkness to blazing sun-light and back every few seconds, whilst remaining constantly hot. I dutifully removed my shades, then quickly replaced them in accordance with the prevailing weather condition. By the time I had reached the gates of the garden, I’d poked myself in the eye three times. I couldn’t help but wonder what Clint would have made of it.
Once I had paid for my ticket and entered, I quickly realised that the garden wasn’t simply a good place for families to visit, it was specifically designed for them. Good news for families, of course, but it did leave me feeling a little self-conscious. Still, suffering for BP editor Gabrielle Luthy is a meaningless reward in itself; almost comparable to suffering for one’s art, so I stayed with it.
I was in family outing paradise; the promised land for city kids. The Musée en Herbe (entry around 3.00 euros) consists of workshops dedicated to bringing art to life for kids through games and activities. Ages between 2 - 12. For all info. call: 01.40.67.97.66.
Further along, past a cluster of distorting mirrors that a gang of kids were having a lot of fun with, the garden really opens out. You move around a winding pathway in a huge circle, finding what amounts to a generous mix of amusement park, zoo, and fun-fair, with an ‘enchanted river’ boat-ride, an ‘auto-piste’ race-track (instructions: ‘start up, right pedal; slow down, left pedal. Fasten your seat-belt. Don’t crash into each other.’), it didn’t seem too far removed from the world of adult drivers outside.
Le Jardin de Séoul, situated in the centre of the garden is part haven of tranquillity—with small bridges over trickling streams leading to peaceful little gardens—and part adventure playground. There is an amazing spiderman’s web of a climbing frame that becomes narrower like a Xmas tree as it gets higher, promising to safely catch any falling adventurers. A far cry from the metal frames of my childhood, that led inevitably to fractured skulls, broken limbs and cross-eyed, chain-smoking teachers leaning over you, screaming: “That’s what you get!”
The fun-fair is just that, with lots of rides and games of all sizes, for all ages; a little zoo boasting bears, monkeys, sea-lions (although I didn’t see any); also, a ‘petite ferme’ with donkeys, goats, pigs, turkeys, rabbits, sheep, hens and cows. And if seeing all that makes your mouth water, there are four restaurants with prices ranging from 9 euros to 11 for kids’ menus and 13 euros to 23 for entrée, plat et dessert. There are also three snack food joints.
Everywhere you turn, there’s something else to occupy the kids and the variety of attractions, ranging from creative exploration to adventure playgrounds, to theatre, to fun-fair, farm-yard or high-tech interactive teaching, means a good-time really is guaranteed; and moms can keep a safe-eye on the little ones as they play whilst relaxing in the gorgeous surroundings, letting the little streams and fountains soothe them. It really is impressive.
The high-tech, interactive Explor@Dome opens its doors after the summer break on 15 August. Designed to teach kids about science and the human senses via workshops (“Les mains dans le réel’ and ‘la tete dans le virtuel’), a normal entry ticket is 5.00 euros, with visit + workshop at 8.00 euros. There is also a kids’ theatre and a free Guignol puppet-show that is extremely popular with the younger kids (they came in droves, running,), that plays Wed, Sat, Sun, Public and school holidays at 3 and 4pm. Shows last around 30 mins. (www.guignol.fr)
What
else? An Enchanted House (closed for August); a Pony School (closed for
August). A Circus ‘Cirque Phenix Jr’. whose next spectacle is now being
prepared for its big October opening. A huge trampoline; pulleys;
sandpits with mechanical diggers; gorgeous fountains; gardens; tunnels
and towers. I also joined a few fathers in watching a couple of horses
being trained by two whip-wielding instructors in boots and skin-tight
riding trousers. “Ah,” I thought, smiling across at one of the ladies as I casually poked myself in the eye with my sunglasses, “something for everyone.”
General Information:
Tel: 01.40.67.90.82.
Fax: 01.40.67.98.73
www.jardindacclimatation.fr
Tel: 01.40.67.90.82.
Fax: 01.40.67.98.73
www.jardindacclimatation.fr
