BonjourParis

Auberge de Noves Buzz

By Margaret Kemp “Paris is a great city, but you must leave to appreciate it”, commented my friend Sylvain Carpriaux, founder of Ideal Gourmet. A seasoned traveller, who doesn’t believe in staying in one place for long, Carpriaux’s crossed oceans, defied death, and says the concept for Ideal Gourmet, as alert readers will remember, was born during a lost-at-sea experience.

 

Ideal Gourmet is a godsend if you’re lost for inspiration, need to send a friend, or business colleague, a gift. You’ve been down the flowers, fruit and chocolate road, so send them to a great restaurant for dinner (www.idealgourmet .com). Ideal Gourmet have an eclectic selection throughout France (starting at 35€). And, when I tell you the Paris section includes Guy Martin, Pierre Gagnaire, Alain Passard, and Michel Rostang (plus plenty of less expensive canteens) you’ll understand what I mean.   

 

“Il faut changer les idees,” insists Carpriaux. So, taking a lingering look at the Eiffel Tower I set sail (by TGV!) to taste the bounty of Provence. Among the exciting Ideal Gourmet discoveries to be made are the excellent Auberge de Noves, where three generations of the Lalleman family have gone from ***Michelin to *. And, trust me, there’s no difference, you’ll be treated like the Queen of Sheba at this exceptional auberge.

 

Located at the end of a long manicured drive, 15 minutes from Avignon, this is a real country inn experience, a mix of Provence and sophistication; rustic and romantic. “If I were to have an assignation this would be the spot”, sighs KVF, elegant President of www.bonjourparis.com. And KVF would be spoilt for choice: 19 rooms, 2 Junior suites and 2 apartments, the Auberge is handy for visits to, say,  Chateauneuf du Pape, Gordes, Saint Remy, Ile sur la Sorgue, Aix, Orange, Arles….bliss. There’s tennis, swimming and fascinating walking trails, good for working up an appetite

 

“My Grandparents won *** Michelin stars, between 1958-1968, I’m the third generation,” reflects Robert Lalleman. We sit, beneath vast plane and fragrant orange trees, on the handsome terrace, watching the blazing sun set.  Robert returned to Noves to continue the family tradition, after “seeing a bit of the world outside.” His culinary parcours includes opening Le Manoir aux Quatre Saisons, UK where feisty, talented Marco Pierre White was his chef de partie!  “I had to get out of Noves because I had a clash with my father,” admits Lalleman. And Papa arrives, Andre Lalleman, one of the original 8 founders of Relais & Chateaux, a formidable man, who, a waiter tells me proudly, has read all Shakespeare’s works in English! “He wants me out of here,” growls Lalleman pere. “No I don’t, I just want you to accept my modern ideas, get into the 21st century”, counters Robert. It’s the same back to the future argument that goes on in every family n’est pas? They love each other passionately; really.

 

“What did you have for lunch?” inquires Robert. We tell him, he says, “right, you want fish or meat?” We plump for the fish option and Robert disappears. Andre, glass of whisky in his hand, looking very Falstaffian, is shocked when we ask for red wine. “What? You can’t be serious!” Well with a wine cellar containing 65,000 bottles of the finest he must be able to come up with something. He scratches his head and disappears, returning with a look of triumph. “Huh,” he holds up a bottle of Domaine Hauvette AOC Les Baux-de-Provence. “Low in tannin, local wine, just what we need!” And it’s a perfect match for Robert the rebel’s herb based dishes, served on the finest china, sitting on Porthault linen. “My dishes are created by intuition and lots of flying cutlery,” he admits.

 

So what did you eat?

 

The menus are “Un Jardin dans les Cuisines” (4 courses) “Menu Decouverte” (5 courses and cheese) “Les Gouts et Les Couleurs” (3 courses) and “L’Accent du Midi” (4 courses) and, with a nod and a wink to Grandmere, “Les Indispensables” such as “Un Vrai Poulet Roti a l’Ail et au Cumin” served for two – avec un peu de patience! Bet papa Andre eats that daily!  “I want clients to mix and match their own menu,” explains Robert. We begin with Foie de Canard au Sanqué d’Echalotes with warm fig toast. Next the lightest Ecrivisses de Notre Vivier with a few morilles. Homard à la plancha with gingembre is a prelude to the dish everyone comes to Provence to eat, “Filet d’Agneau tout simple à l’huile d’olive.” Sublime! A little local cheese and a dessert of fresh raspberries and astringent fromage blanc glacé. Water is from the well, service attentive but not pretentious reflecting the real meaning of the French “art de recevoir.” Definitely worth ** if not ***. 

 

So what do I wear?

 

Chic crowd segues with locals, no jacket required, everything from the LBD to a Carla Bruni look-alike (actually it probably was Carla Bruni) in flip-flops. If you’re religious pray that someone gives you a dinner at Auberge de Noves from Ideal Gourmet.

 

Auberge de Noves,
Domaine de Devès, 13500, Noves
Route Chateaurenard, 2km par 28
T: 04 90 24 28 28
www.relaischateaux.com/noves

 

Ideal Gourmet,
T: 01 45 72 07 14
www.idealgourmet.fr

 

Domaine Hauvette (biological wine)
Chemin du Trou des Boeufs,
La Haute Galine, 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence,
T: 04 90 92 03 90
By Appointment Only.