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Antiquing in Normandy
Normandy: To Americans, the best known province
of France. History has left its mark and scars in this corner of
France; certainly, the site of the most famous military operation of
World War II. Maybe, that is why Americans make Normandy the first
province they visit in France after visiting Paris. I must admit I did.
Of course, I went to see the
beaches and the WW II sights. After all, many a night, my father would
soothe me to sleep, with stories of the great battles of which he had
been a part in this exotic area of the world. What I did not expect to
find was the following: beautiful little sleepy towns, filled with
medieval half-timbered homes, windowsills bursting with geraniums that
represented every hue of the color chart looking too perfect to be
real. I delighted in the cheeses, the seafood and let's not forget
Normandy's greatest gift to twentieth century man, Calvados. The
hospitality of the people in this region is jarring, especially if you
have just come from Paris. They like Americans! Behind their smile, I
always think, is the thought, "you came, you saved us and most
important, you left." Enough to make anyone smile, n'est-ce pas?
Normandy
is divided into two regions. We will spend time researching the
northern half of Normandy, which includes the Calvados region, the Cote
Fleurie and the Pays d'Auge. This area was my first foray into the
world of antiquing in the provinces. As I've always noted, Normand
furniture is the most similar to American antique rustic furniture
originating from New England and the Mid-Atlantic states. Maybe that is
why I was first drawn to its charm, simple yet ornate and descriptively
graceful.
Normand armoires at
their best are the most sought after and single most beautiful meuble
français. Chene et pin, (oak and pine) are two woods used for these
magnificent giants. Oak is usually stained a rich, golden brown and
pine (which I must admit, is my least favorite wood) is stained a
golden honey patina. Most armoires have a bonnet top, with a series of
carvings that are quite sophisticated. The armoires are of a grand
scale and the paradox of such a simple region (when it comes to
esthetics) producing the grandest of all regional armoires, does not
get lost on this aficionado. Many eighteenth century furniture sets,
which included the armoire, sideboard, commode, grandfather clock,
chevet and marriage chest were part of a dowry. To find a full, intact
set these days is quite rare, but it is easy to recognize. The markings
will be the same on each part of the ensemble, frequently with hearts
carved on the side-panels of each piece.
I
acquired an horloge demoiselle and a chevet from the same set,
originating from the Pays D'Auge region, easy to identify, as the
bonnets have a rounded sculpture with certain uniformed markings. As I
said, you can find similarities between American rustic country and the
meubles rustiques from this region, maybe that is why out of all the
furniture styles of France, I find meubles Normands the most simpatico
with my American and English antiques. They blend like old friends,
similar, yet different enough to enhance each other.
Normandy
is more than antiquites et antiquaires. The stretch of road hugging the
sea between Deauville and the beautiful medieval town of Honfleur is
nature at it's most harmonious and symbiotic. The beauty of the best
kept secret in France (well maybe that is an exaggeration, I do know
one or two people who had discovered it before I had!), is Rouen. A
city that has the most wonderful jumble of narrow lanes, antique shops
and a shopping pedestrian street with amazing character. Deauville and
Trouville, wonderful resort towns, side by side, yet so different.
Let's not forget Bayeux and it's famous tapestry, Caen and the most
comprehensive museum dedicated to WW II in France and, of course, the
beaches. The names are forever sketched in our memories, Omaha, Utah,
the battle of Cherbourg....
Normandy
is a treasure-trove for the antique dealer, collector, lover or
browser. You really won't have trouble finding brocantes or antiquaires
to explore. Indeed, we were heading through the countryside, on the N13
highway between Liseux and Evreux, of course, I scared my companion
with my famous "STOP THE CAR!" There, on the left-side of the road was
a delightful brocante filled with lovely 19th siecle furniture, typical
of the Pays d'Auge. I found a side-table with unique, beautiful
carvings, a brilliant shade of soft brown created by a combination of
age and stained oak. I love this little table, and when I remember the
final bargaining price I paid, I love it even more! My point, you don't
have to pull out a map, study it with magnifying-glasses and search
like the dickens to find the nearest shop!
ROUEN
I already mentioned my claim to being the first American with enough
sense to leave Paris to discover this untapped city, sort of like
Columbus (only searching for antiques, not land). This is my kind of
Gallic city, authentique. First, you must visit the sight where Joan of
Arc was burned at the stake, although not much is left to explore, for
those interested in this ghastly part of the long human drama. The
cathedral is a must, one of the finest examples of French Gothic
architecture in France. Most attractions and shopping are close to the
cathedral as well. The Rue du Gros Horloge, the main pedestrian
shopping street, is not where you will find the antiques, but it is a
"must-do" as you will pass under an arch supporting the famous, antique
clock, the Gros Horloge.
The
antique district is in my favorite part of town, the medieval village,
which starts about a block from the cathedral. Many shops are located
around Saint Maclau and the streets surrounding it are chock full of
brocantes and antiquaires. Prices are a good 30-40% less than Paris. Of
course, the one difference here, the selection is all Normand. Rouen
was a big faience producing town throughout the centuries and you will
find much in the way of antique ceramics and porcelain, as well as
modern reproductions. Oddly enough, this is one area where I don't fill
my suitcases with pichets, plats et jarres. The ceramics and porcelain
style of this city, borrowed heavily from Asian design, is much too
elegant and ornate for moi. Don't let that stop you, the vast majority
of collectors find it to be stunning. Rue Damiette has a handful of the
best shops in town, in quality and prices.
The
quality of the armoires, buffets and clocks in these shops are amazing.
I bought a horloge demoiselle pays d'Auge 19th siecle, pin from one of
the best shops in town. Renault et fils, Right on a little square off
of rue Damiette. M. Renault's prices were reasonable, his pieces
authentic and he was a most agreeable man to do business with. As he
promised, our purchase was shipped and arrived five weeks later.
Formidable.
HONFLEUR Calvados
sold from roadside shops, local fromagerieset brocantes dot the roads
leading into this charming port. Don't be thrown by the tons of
tourists in the main part of the old harbor in Honfleur. First, try to
visit at a time that might be a little less popular. Second, walk a few
blocks away from the port, and you are wandering through ancient lanes,
passing half-timbered homes and soaking up the history and charm of
this village sur la mer. There are a number of decent shops to browse
through, the best being La Brocante Chat and the interesting La
Brocanterie. Both (shops) excel at presenting fine examples of bread
bins, hanging baskets and armoires at incredible prices. Of course, I
must warn you, to ship an armoire home, by a reputable shipper, you
must add $800 to $1200 to the amazing price you arrive at, after
bargaining with the marchand. Just remember, you are still getting a
quality item, probably not easy to find in the US and certainly (even
with shipping) at substantial savings.
BAYEUX
Okay. There's this tapestry. Once you've done that, head over to Robert
Metais Antiquites, rue St-Jean. This is the best shop in town. If
Haute-Epoque 19th siecle is your passion, you have found nirvana.
VILLEDIEU-LES-POELES This town has been known for its coppersmith
industry for centuries. You won't find charm, but you will find
incredible antique copper pieces and furniture at Erick Hervy
Antiquities. Normandy, a land of contrast. Drive five miles inland,
bucolic countryside, farms, apple trees and solitude surround you.
Head
over to the shore, suddenly you are in the midst of the Northern
Riviera. Deauville. Vacationers are taking a dip in the channel,
playing the casinos and dining at Ciros, known for the best lobster in
France. Next day you are mourning the soldiers at the American cemetery
overlooking the beaches of the invasion. Normandy. A microcosm of
modern man. You come to acknowledge his follies, and to gaze in awe at
his accomplishments.
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