A Taste of Paris in Manhattan
The New York Times dubbed it “The Soul of Paris in the Heart of New York”. Jackie Kennedy Onassis considered it a “joli petit bistro”. Its proprietor calls it his”cocktail of human beings”. I call it a whimsical slice of 1920s Paris in midtown Manhattan.
What is it? It is Chez Josephine – a bistro cum supper club that combines the best of ambiance, service, entertainment and cooking in a refurbished edifice that was once home to a massage parlor called “The French Palace”. Its namesake is none other than Josephine Baker, the American icon of stage and screen who was catapulted to international fame in Paris.
Walking into Chez Josephine, you immediately sense that you are in for an experience. The royal blue walls studded with gold figures reminiscent of French fleurs-de-lys, the “pseudo art deco” fixtures behind the beautiful cherry wood bar and the stainless steel coconut tree that stands over the grand piano at the back of the main dining room hint at what lies in store. Large posters and portraits of Josephine adorn the walls – it seems that she is lovingly surveying the scene that is about to unfold before you. Roswell Pogue III, a New Orleans native who serves as the maitre d’hôtel, greets you with a smile so warm that it feels like an embrace before ushering you to your table. Jarry Bouillon-Baker, one of Josephine’s 12 adopted children, may well be your server for the evening. And you will undoubtedly observe the owner and creative spirit behind the restaurant, Jean-Claude Baker, moving around the room like a butterfly flitting from flower to flower.
Jean-Claude, whose given name is Jean-Claude Julien Leon Tronville, met Josephine Baker when he was only 14 years old and an errand boy at the Hôtel Scribe in Paris. In his biography of Josephine, entitled The Hungry Heart, he describes their meeting and how she became his “second mother”. In her later years, after she lost the Dordogne château Les Milandes, Jean-Claude was instrumental in arranging performances for Josephine in Berlin and toured with her in Brazil and the U.S. He lived with her family at Roquebrune and knew the Rainbow Tribe (Josephine’s adopted children) well. After Josephine’s death, he took the name Baker.
In 1986, Jean-Claude decided to open Chez Josephine. Though he knew almost nothing about food or the restaurant business at the time, and despite his own doubts, the skills and instincts that he developed during his German cabaret days guided him to success. Celebrities are no stranger to his dining room – Carol Channing, Alan Alda, Maya Angelou and Mel Brooks are but a few of those who have graced the tables of Chez Josephine. Jean-Claude, whose warm, flamboyant manner makes him seem larger than life, is adept at entertaining them.
Star personalities notwithstanding, Chez Josephine would not be the success that it is without its cuisine. Executive chef Marvin James (student of Roger Vergé and Michel Rostang of France) has created a colorful, inventive menu for dinner and Sunday brunch (the restaurant is not open for lunch) that celebrates both French and American cuisine. Entrees include Napoleon of Warm Asparagus with portabello mushrooms, Maryland Crab Cake with tarragon tartar sauce and field greens, and Escargot Bourguignon with garlic and herbs. Main dishes include Lobster Cassoulet with shrimp, scallops and seafood sausage, Elvira’s Down Home Fried Chicken with sweet potato fries and red pepper cornbread, and Boudin Noir with red cabbage, apple and onion compote. Desserts include Lemon Tarte Brulée, Black and White Chocolate Mousse and Cappuccino Frozen Soufflé. Servings are copious, so be sure to pace yourself!
The wine list numbers over 50 varieties of French and New World (predominantly U.S.) wines. Meursault and Pouilly-Fuissé rub shoulders with Chardonnays from Napa and Sonoma and an Australian Sauvignon Blanc, while Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Nuits-St-Georges stand alongside California and Oregon Pinot Noirs. As one might expect in a restaurant named after Josephine Baker, there is no shortage of champagne either – you may select from Louis Roederer, Veuve Cliquot and Dom Perignon, among others.
Chez Josephine celebrated its 20th year of existence this October – in a year that also marks the 80th anniversary of Josephine’s first restaurant in Paris (which was also called Chez Josephine) and the centennial year of Josephine Baker’s birth. In honor of these prestigious milestones, Jean-Claude asked Chef James to create dishes inspired by the original menu from Chez Josephine in Paris. The specially priced menu consisted of Soupe à l’Oignon or Risotto Milanese followed by Spaghettis à l’Italienne or Chicken Maryland with corn fritters.
Thanksgiving will be filled with culinary promise for Chez Josephine’s clients. Among the dishes to be served are Velouté of Sweet Corn, Mousse de Foie Gras with toasted brioche, Free Range Vermont Turkey with chestnut stuffing, whipped sweet potatoes and cranberry citrus compote, and Roast Loin of Lamb with black truffle mashed potatoes and green beans. France gets the nod for desserts, which will include profiteroles au chocolat, tarte tatin and petit fours. As with all meals at Chez Josephine, live piano music will enhance your enjoyment of your holiday dinner.
Hope to see you there!
Chez Josephine
414 W 42nd Street
New York, New York 10036
Tel: 212-594-1925
www.chezjosephine.com
Hours: Tuesday through Saturday: 5 PM – 1 AM
Sunday brunch and dinner: 12 PM until 10 PM
Thanksgiving – 12 PM until 10 PM
