Another suggestion if you have a car when you are at Mont St Michel is the Breton city of Dinan, about 30 mi away from Pontorson, which has an interesting old town that wasn't too badly destroyed during WW II. That means a lot of older buildings going back 400-500 years or more. That is also why Bayeux is so nice, as it was one of the first towns liberated during the Normandy landings, so it also didn't suffer much damage. Unfortunately, not too many towns survived in Normandie without a lot of damage. Something I missed last month during my trip is the new museum of Liberation in Caen, because it supposedly takes almost a day to see it. My French friend saw it and recommends it highly.

The suggestions below for moules is a good one, as that is the area for it. Also, as you get closer to Brittany, get crepes!! There is a whole spectrum of dinner and dessert crepes you have to see to believe. Another treat in both Normandie and Bretagne is the cider, which is drunk by the locals instead of wine and beer, and runs about 4% alcohol. Another suggestion if you have a car are to stay overnight either the auberges in the countries/small towns or the gites (bead-and-breakfast). My first introduction to moules was at an auberge halfway between Rouen and Caen. Like Jean below, I also have a writeup in the trip reports, Paris Part II that includes my trip to Brittany.

I recently posted my trip report on our week-long visit to Normandy last September. You can find it here under Normandy: Day One, and so on. It might give you some ideas.

Mussels

Karen,

"moules"???? What are these?

I always try to go to Honfleur. I love the architect, its charm and the moules. I think it's one of the most charming towns in Normandy.

So much information! Thank you so much. I have been reading various guide books and looking at information from this site. I'll have more information as to what we decided to do closer to March- when we go.

again, thanks!

Visit Trouville for my favorite place for mussels, "Les Vapeurs."

Also, keep in mind that if you rent a car, that automatic transmission means that you pay almost twice as much as manual transmission.

Bayeux is a nice town to visit, probably much more interesting than Rouen if you are pressed for time, both for the cathedral and for the tapestry there, plus it is a smaller city. Again, let me iterate that the fastest way to your final destination is the freewau/tollway between Paris and Mont St Michel, and that is about 4 hours just on the autoroute. The Routes National are designed to connect city to city, and save for Rouen and Caen with their beltways, you go through (or near) the center of each town you come to. Also, check the Normandie website for opportunities such as market days, which is a kick to spend at least 2 hours (parking may be difficult in the bigger cities), and fairs.

Jean, I think, you hit it right on the button, when you said that " but having a car will make everything much easier--especially seeing the out-of-the-way villages that aren't always easily reachable by public transportation", I just would like to add, that also avoid the main roads, and use the smaller onens. This probably is true in Normandy more than in other places is France, with possibly the exception of the South (Province and Cote d'Azur).

BP Chuck

SFgirl,

Two days in Normandy with Mont St-Michel and Rouen on the list will just about fill in all the available time, given travel distances. If you can allot three days you could add a few small towns, such as Les Andelys and Lyon-la-Forêt and perhaps a few nearby others. Normandy doesn't look all that big when compared, say, with Provence, but it does take more time than you'd expect to get around. If you're set on Mont St-Michel, consider visiting Honfleur and Bayeux for that third day; both are interesting small towns, with much to see, and between Bayeux and Mont St-Michel lies Coutances, of considerable historic significance and with a fine church set high on the hill. Alternatively, you could spend an entire day visiting the "Abbey road," with places like Jumièges and le Bec Helouin.

You will have a fine time, but having a car will make everything much easier--especially seeing the out-of-the-way villages that aren't always easily reachable by public transportation.

I tend to agree that renting a car is best if you want to hit the smaller towns. But you also need to plan, plan, plan. You have to consider, if time more important than cost ?

I went on a trip from Paris to near Mont St Michel last month, and it took me about 4 hrs, with rest stops along the way, to drive on the Peage (tollway) from Porte Maillot to St James in Brittany (about 20 mi south of Avranches). If you want to hit small towns, then I suggest short excursions off the highway. If you take the more scenic routes, such as the Department roads (DXX on the maps), it could be slower. We really had a fast, but scenic road on D30 from St James to Pontorson, which is the gateway to Mont St Michel. Despite claims otherwise, I don't think you can yet rent cars that have built-in Navigation systems, but the rental agencies are very happy to rent one that goes on the dash for about $100. If you are pressed for time, and you don't speak much French, this is a useful option. Even if you take the train, it would still be at least that span of time.

Another thing, study up on the guides for what you want to see. The Michelin Green guides are pretty much into the historical stuff for most towns. I am less familiar with the other guides, but I will let the other regulars chime in here. Some of the more interesting things I have stumbled into with small towns have been found by a visit to the Sindicat d'Initative, indicated by a sign with an italic font "I", sometimes with green background. More likely than not, they speak English, because so many Brits vacation in Normandy. Another source for neat ideas is to hit a few tour agency sites, such as Thomas Cook, and view their itineraries, which sometimes tell you details. Another opportunity is the websites, such as the Normandy one.

Renting a car for a couple of days might be a little more expensive, but it's the most convenient way to visit villages and the countryside. You could rent it from Rouen, driving in France is not a big deal if you avoid Paris.

Thanks BPal. I was looking at a day trip to St. Michel (sorry- spelled it wrong earlier) and it stopped in 2 towns on the way. It was a decent price.

I will look into other general bus trips as well.

I think just from what you are talking about you've already used up the 2/3 days without transportation. We went over something lile this not too long ago and the short comings of fitting in train or bus travel was a major problem. It just ain't that simple not knowing the language and a difference of standards. I think you would be better off if you made days trips frm Paris...they are not bad. They even have one days to St.Michel or even multi port do-able trips to Loire and Normandy.A tour will get you to even 2/3 towns while on your own your lucky to get your first. Take a look at what is offered by the bus tour groups.

My cousin and I have decided to spend 2-3 days (along with 7 days in Paris) traveling the small towns in Normandy. We are going to see Mount St. Michelle and Rouen (granted, not a small town). We love taking trains and figure we can get around well that way.

Are there any local busses from city to city or anything like that? We are not really into tours- but will take them if it is best- and aren't in the mood to drive.

We are mainly interested in general culture, architecture, good food, and people. Any suggestions would be appreciated.