Stories
Bois de Boulogne
Bois de Boulogne is by far the largest park in Paris. It is over half the size of New York City’s Central Park and almost triple London’s Hyde Park. Daylight hours reveal an expansive variety of park settings, ranging from groomed gardens by the lake to well-worn bike paths amid unkempt forests. And its size is truly one of its greatest assets—if you’re willing to venture far enough into the depths of Bois de Boulogne (ideally with a pal/dog in tow), you can truly escape the feeling of being in a city.
Didn’t pack your compass? Stick to a more manageable Bois de Boulogne experience: the loop around Lac Inferieur is one of the most enjoyable areas of the entire park and presents little risk of getting lost. Completing the loop should take about an hour at a brisk walk, although there are plenty of interesting stops along the way if you’d like to spend the afternoon outside.
Rowboat rental from the man at Les Bateaux du Bois de Boulogne (right on the water near the Pavillon-Royal) tops the list. Do so without worrying about feeling like a tourist—there’s not a lifejacket or safety waiver in sight. For a fifty euro damage deposit and a 19 euro charge, you can take a boat for two hours. Row the entire length of the lake for a bit of exercise or set up shop under one of the shade trees hanging over the water; it’s a wholesome, relaxing activity in a setting that is undeniably charming.
If hunger strikes, the area is extremely popular for picnics and there are several drink stands along the way around the lake, but for a lunch “très agréable,” the locals all point to the same place: a restaurant called Le Chalet des Iles. A thirty-second ferry ride transports patrons to one of the small islands in the center of the lake, where vine-covered decks are filled with tables of happy diners. Main courses average around twenty-five euros and it’s best to have a reservation, as the restaurant is only open for lunch (01 42 88 04 69). Passage to and from the islands (which are connected by bridges) runs until 8 pm, offering contained, yet secluded, walking and picnic areas in addition to those on the exterior of the lake.
There are, however, a few cons to such a free-for-all concept for a public park. Come nightfall, the park turns into one of Paris’ hottest red light districts and in some areas, the evidence of such tends to linger throughout the day. Even so, it seems that many Parisians have elected to ignore the aging lady in a slip rather than miss out on the use of the cities’ most unrestrained section of green. The park is filled not only with runners and cyclists (many of whom appear to be regulars), but also a huge number of leisurely walkers, leashless dogs trotting at their heels. Whether you’re in the mood to sweat (one too many baguettes?) or simply seeking a stroll in the sunshine, Bois de Boulogne is well known for a reason. For those that conquer its seemingly overwhelming size, it offers endless opportunities for activity in the great outdoors just minutes away from the heart of the city.
Practical Information
Phone: 01 40 67 90 82
Metro:
Les Sablons
Porte Maillot
Porte Dauphine
