Stories
11th: Bastille, Oberkampf
Paris - 11th Arrondissement
If nothing else, the 11th arrondissement is the capitol of Paris Nightlife. The suburbanites tend to rush to the Bastille to dance and drink, while the city centrists tend to hit the doors in the Oberkampf. These are the hip neighborhoods of Paris where the youth of Paris go to play and live because they can actually afford to be here.
Change has always been the face of the Bastille. On July 14th, 1789, Parisians began the French Revolution here and what was then a stormed Bastille full of chaos and uprising is now the Opéra Bastille (the new opera house, not to be confused with the older, gorgeous Palais Garnier in the 2nd). Funky shops and hotels abound in this arrondissement and for those needing to cash in on a little tourist action, Bofingers brasserie offers up a hefty serving of touristy choucroute garnie, and the Musée Edith Piaf and Cirque d'Hiver offer a fullness to those who crave museums.
Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine has off-the-beaten path charm for those who want an old-world walk. For shoppers, especially on Sunday, rue des Francs-Bourgeois is the place to spend your euros, as the shops are an endless mix of sweet chain stores versus specialty shops of every kind—with the added bonus that if you keep walking southwest, you'll stride into Place des Vosges in the Marais. Not an altogether bad time.
Destinations in the 11th: Bastille, Oberkampf
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Bastille
The Bastille area is best known for the massive gate/hotel/prison that once stood here and the outrage it created among Parisian’s; so much so that they stormed the structure on July 14, 1789. The day is now claimed as Bastille Day. Unfortunately for the structure, it was demolished shortly after. Even if you can’t walk around the hallowed halls of the Bastille, there is still much to do here like boating on the marina, walking along the Canal Saint Martin, searching over the demolished remains, and taking in a performance at the Opera Bastille. -
Cirque d’Hiver
The Cirque d’Hiver structure itself is a fantastically restored 19th century building and the “Stars” circus that is held within is even more fascinating than the structure itself. From flying acrobats performing death defying stunts to fully trained tigers and hilarious clownish antics, the show is spectacular to say the least. -
Eglise Saint-Ambroise
Built over a five year period from 1863 – 1868 by Theodore Ballu, Saint-Ambroise replaced the Our Lady of the Procession church. Interestingly, sculptures in the square are made by neighbors with the help of sculptor G. Chance. Saint-Ambroise itself is beautifully crafted and a pioneering structure of its time when using metal frames and expanding to such a large interior was unheard of it. Saint-Ambroise is a must see on any church tour of Paris. -
Le Marais
This district is one of the most eclectic and vibrant in the city. There is a strong presence from many different peoples including the Jewish and Chinese communities and a large gay following that all coexist peacefully at the many cafes, nightclubs, cabarets and shopping establishments found here. There is also a handful of museums, including the Musee Picasso.
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Musee Edith Piaf
Fans of the Marion Cotillard film entitled "La Vie en Rose" (2007) may wish to visit Musee Edith Piaf. This private museum is located in a stunning apartment and features memorabilia of the legendary French songstress Edith Piaf, known as "The Little Sparrow" because of her dimunitive size. The museum is owned by Piaf's friend and biographer. Some of the collection’s best features are Piaf’s own china set, gold and platinum record collections, fan letters, personal photos, and of, course her tiny designer garb! The museum is free by appointment only and is only open Monday-Thursday afternoons.
No elevator--visitors must walk up to the 4th floor. This off-the-beaten track attraction is in the gentrifying area of Menilmontant.
Piaf is buried at nearby Pere Lachaise Cemetary and her plot is a popular attraction where fans still leave flowers and notes of appreciation.
Want to know more before you go?
You may want to read this biography of Piaf: "No Regrets: The Life of Edith Piaf" by Carolyn Burke
Extended DVD version of 2007 award-winning film: "La Vie en Rose" starring Marion Cotillard
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Musee du Fumeur
This one of a kind museum is dedicated to smoking of all sorts. It boasts a wide collection of smoking contraptions, the history of the ritual dating back to ancient times, and observations on the effects of smoking in the human experience. -
Nightlife in 11th
Ueberkampf is the place you won't want your older teenagers to discover. This is where Paris nightlife goes into full swing. -
Place de la Bastille
Only remnants remain of the 14th century structure known as the Bastille Prison, which was famously stormed on July 14, 1789 during the French Revolution. Today the bustling area is home to the modern Opera Bastille performance hall, a lively restaurant/bar scene, hotels and shopping. Here you'll also find the largest outdoor market in Paris, Richard Lenoir, on Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays. -
Place de la Republique
Place de la Republique dates back to the 14th century. It hosts the French Republican Guard and holds a beautiful bronze statue by three different artists – Leopold (sculptor), Charles (base), and Aime-Jules Dalous (historic scene on base). -
Rue Francs-Bourgeois
Located in the lively Marais district, rue Francs-Bourgeois is an excellent way to spend your day’s people watching, shopping, scoping architecture, and exploring the Hotel Carnavalet to learn the history of Paris. -
Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine
Since the 1400’s, this ancient street has been home to many specialty shops like furniture makers and butchers. Today the same still holds true and the street is a wonderful place for a stroll since it retains its Old World appeal with peaceful, tree lined, cobble stone streets.
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Rue de Lappe & Around
As you said, this area is becoming HOT -- there are some great clubs and some animated bars that cater to the young and trendy set. Rue de Charonne houses some of Paris's hippest designers .. both fashion and interior. If your style is more hippy or Indie, make a detour to rue Keller.
